Property facts and seller disclosures

How to gather square footage, system ages, taxes, and information commonly requested for listings and disclosures. Requirements vary by sale and location.

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Before you list · 6 steps · free · the same words a Keighbor seller reads

Why this page existsThis is the guide a Keighbor seller reads at the "Gather details and disclosures" milestone, published in full so you can read the whole job before anybody asks you to pay for help with it.

Key takeaways

  • The official numbers are written down with a note on any discrepancy, and all four systems have an install year or an honest "unknown".
  • You have written conveys and excluded lists ready to attach to the purchase agreement.
  • Parking, HOA, and school details are written on your property fact sheet.
  • You have a one-page utility sheet with providers, average costs, and any special notes.
  • You have a folder of what you could find. Missing items are just missing.
  • The signed state form is saved in your room, and - for a pre-1978 home - the buyer has the lead pamphlet and both of you have signed the disclosure.
1

Write down the basics

You're done when: The official numbers are written down with a note on any discrepancy, and all four systems have an install year or an honest "unknown".

Confirm the bedroom, bathroom, and square-footage details used in the listing. Also gather known information about the roof, furnace, water heater, and air conditioning from reliable records and receipts.

How to do it

  1. Look up your county assessor's official record. That is the county's number for your home.
  2. If your own measurement differs, know that appraisers usually measure finished, above-grade living area.
  3. Only count rooms that legally qualify as bedrooms - typically a closet plus an egress window or second exit. Anything that does not quite meet the definition is a bonus room.
  4. Count full and half baths separately. A half bath is a toilet and sink, no shower or tub.
  5. If the county's number and your own measurement disagree, decide which to publish and be ready to explain. Often the county has an older number that predates a small addition.

Worth knowing

  • Finished basements usually cannot be counted in above-grade square footage. Listing them separately as finished lower level is standard.
  • A bedroom without proper egress is not a legal bedroom in most jurisdictions.
  • If you're unsure how a basement or converted room should be described, ask a local appraiser or another appropriately licensed professional.
What it costs
Free
Where to check
Your county assessor's official record
Dating your roof, furnace, water heater, and A/C
  • Buyers and inspectors may ask about the roof, furnace, water heater, and air conditioning. Keep any replacement dates and receipts with the sale.
  • Pull the year built from the county record.
  • Find install dates for the roof, furnace or heat pump, air conditioning, and water heater. Permits, receipts, or the manufacturer's serial number - most serials encode the date, and searching "how to read [brand] serial number" gets you there.
  • Note the typical remaining life for each: roofs 20 to 25 years, water heaters 10 to 12, HVAC 15 to 20.
  • Record whether each has been serviced regularly.
  • Cross-check against any transferable warranties you have collected.
  • Worth knowing: A system at end of life comes up in inspection negotiations. Better to know now than to find out then.
  • Worth knowing: Most state disclosure forms ask about the age and condition of these systems.
  • Worth knowing: If you genuinely do not know a date, "unknown to seller" is a legitimate answer. Guessing is not.
  • Typical cost: Free.
2

Note the land and what stays

You're done when: You have written conveys and excluded lists ready to attach to the purchase agreement.

Buyers need to know exactly what they are buying: where the lot ends, and which items stay with the house rather than leaving with you. Getting this clear now prevents closing-day disputes.

How to do it

  1. Pull lot size and dimensions from the plat or county record. Note whether you have a recent survey.
  2. Make a clear list of what conveys: appliances, window treatments, mounted TVs and brackets, sheds, playsets, above-ground pool.
  3. Make an equally clear list of what does not: the chandelier you love, the patio heater, custom shelves you plan to take.
  4. Note anything unusual: leased solar panels, a leased propane tank or water softener, mineral rights, easements, shared driveways.
  5. Put both lists into your listing and into your purchase agreement.

Worth knowing

  • Anything bolted or attached is generally assumed to convey unless you exclude it in writing. That mounted TV bracket usually counts.
  • Leased items do not convey. Transfer or removal is arranged with the provider before closing, and solar-panel transfers can take weeks.
  • In some regions mineral or water rights are separate from the land.
What it costs
Free, unless you need a new survey ($400-800)
Where to check
Your plat or county record, and your existing survey
3

Parking, dues, and schools

You're done when: Parking, HOA, and school details are written on your property fact sheet.

Parking, HOA rules, and assigned schools are three of the most common filters buyers browse with, and the HOA packet is a document with a real lead time on it.

How to do it

  1. Parking: note the garage type and capacity, driveway parking, and any assigned, street, or permit rules. For a condo, list assigned spaces, guest parking, deeded spots, and fees.
  2. HOA: find your CC&Rs, bylaws, rules, and current dues with the amount and frequency. Note what dues cover, any pending special assessments, and the rental, pet, and architectural rules.
  3. Find out who issues the resale certificate or estoppel - the packet of HOA financials the buyer needs - and order it early.
  4. Schools: use the district's own boundary tool. Proximity does not always match assignment.
  5. State assigned schools as a factual assignment, never as a quality claim. That is a fair-housing rule, not a style preference.

Worth knowing

  • Estoppel and HOA transfer fees usually run $100 to $500 and are typically the seller's cost.
  • Delinquent dues or open violations can attach to the buyer, so clearing them before closing is standard practice.
  • Pending special assessments are generally considered material and need disclosing.
  • Some states cap the fee and the delivery time. Florida caps estoppels at $250 with ten business days.
What it costs
$100-500 for HOA estoppel and transfer fees, typically the seller's
Where to check
The school district's own boundary tool, and your HOA management company
4

Gather your utility bills

You're done when: You have a one-page utility sheet with providers, average costs, and any special notes.

Buyers want to know who provides power, gas, water, sewer or septic, trash, and internet, and roughly what the home costs to run month to month.

How to do it

  1. List each utility with its provider name.
  2. Gather twelve months of bills and work out the average monthly cost for each. Seasonality matters - one summer bill is not representative.
  3. Note well against municipal water, and septic against sewer. Flag any propane or oil tank, and whether it is owned or leased.
  4. Flag any special districts or fees: stormwater, irrigation, community solar.
  5. Check which internet services are available at the address, such as fiber, cable, or DSL.

Worth knowing

  • An annual average is far more representative than a single bill.
  • You will use this same list when you cancel utilities after closing.
  • Well and septic details can change what inspections a buyer's lender requires, especially on FHA, VA, and USDA loans.
What it costs
Free
Where to check
Twelve months of your own bills
5

Find your paperwork

You're done when: You have a folder of what you could find. Missing items are just missing.

Permits prove work was done legally, warranties transfer real value to the buyer, and receipts document improvements that raise your tax cost basis. Missing older records is common and will not stop the sale.

How to do it

  1. Gather permits for major work: additions, roof, electrical, HVAC, decks, pools, plumbing rework.
  2. Collect transferable warranties: roof, HVAC, appliances, foundation, termite bond, home warranty.
  3. Note how each warranty transfers. Some need a short form and a small fee.
  4. If there is unpermitted work, your local building department can tell you the options. A retroactive permit is often cheaper than dealing with it during a sale.
  5. Save every improvement receipt from your time in the home. They can raise your cost basis for capital-gains purposes.

Worth knowing

  • Missing paperwork is normal. Find what you can, disclose what you know.
  • Transferable warranties, especially structural or termite bonds, are worth naming in the listing.
  • Keeping manuals, warranties, and paint colors in one folder for the buyer at closing is a small courtesy that gets remembered.
What it costs
Free to gather. Retroactive permits vary by jurisdiction
Where to check
Your local building department's permit records
6

Fill in your disclosure forms

You're done when: The signed state form is saved in your room, and - for a pre-1978 home - the buyer has the lead pamphlet and both of you have signed the disclosure.

Two legal documents, one sitting. Almost every state requires a seller disclosure form covering what you know about the property, and homes built before 1978 additionally require the federal lead-paint disclosure. Accuracy on both is on you, and "unknown" is a legitimate answer where a guess is not.

How to do it

  1. Find your state's form. Search "[your state] seller disclosure form" - most state real estate commissions publish the exact PDF for free. Indiana uses State Form 46234.
  2. Read every question carefully and answer factually. "Unknown" is a legitimate answer if you truly do not know. Guessing is not.
  3. Disclose known material defects even if you are selling as-is. As-is does not override your disclosure obligations.
  4. If the form asks about specific hazards - radon, mould, meth-lab history - answer honestly. Some states require additional standalone disclosures for these.
  5. Sign, date, and keep a copy. In most states you have to give this to the buyer before or at contract signing.

Worth knowing

  • The room stores your state's form, fills it in, and e-signs it, so this does not need a printer.
  • A few states, Alabama among them, do not require a standardised form. Even there, actively concealing a known defect is not allowed.
  • If any question leaves you unsure, an hour with a real estate attorney clears it up. This is a legal document and we are not able to advise you on it.
What it costs
Free
Where to check
Your state real estate commission's own published form
The federal lead-paint disclosure (pre-1978 homes)
  • If your home was built before 1978, federal law requires you to give buyers a specific pamphlet and disclosure form. This applies everywhere in the US. Buyers also get a ten-day window to have the home tested. It is a fifteen-minute task.
  • Confirm the year built. If it is 1978 or later you are exempt - skip this step.
  • If it is pre-1978, download the EPA's "Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home" pamphlet. It is free, and the room keeps a current copy.
  • Fill out the Lead-Based Paint Disclosure form. If you have no knowledge of lead paint in the home, that is a valid answer.
  • Give both the pamphlet and the signed disclosure to any buyer before they sign the purchase agreement.
  • The buyer's ten-day lead-inspection window then starts. They can waive it in writing, and many do, but you have to offer it.
  • Worth knowing: Even if you have never tested for lead, you still have to complete the form. "No knowledge" is a legitimate answer.
  • Worth knowing: Federal penalties for skipping this are steep. It is not a step to leave for later.
  • Worth knowing: This one is federal, so it does not vary by state.
  • Typical cost: Free.

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Every step of a home sale has a guide this long behind it. Your room opens them one at a time as you reach them, and whatever you work out gets saved into the step.

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The one thing to take away

The signed state form is saved in your room, and - for a pre-1978 home - the buyer has the lead pamphlet and both of you have signed the disclosure.

Set up my room
Based on where you are, go here nextHow to write a listing descriptionWhat to lead with, what to leave out, and the fair-housing rules that decide how you word it.
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